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Kev_mk3
21-12-2005, 04:04 PM
*can you sticky this please* ( borrowed off mig web )

Buyers Guide

Although the following guide concentrates on the MK3 Astra GSi, many of the areas covered are also applicable to all other MK3 Astra's.

Engine:

(note that although the engine pictured has a Ecotec spark plug cover, its is infact a C20XE engine. Ecotecs all have straight spark plug covers as opposed to the L-shaped type)

One very common and known problem on the C20XE engine (2.0 16V from 92-95) is that it is known for heads to have both cracking and porous problems, which result in replacement cylinder heads being required. The easiest way to check for this is to look for a browny sludge in the coolant bottle. Be wary of any car you go to see that's had freshly changed coolant.

The 2.0 16V is a very good and strong engine, and if well maintained and looked after will go for 200k without any major problems. Unfortunately many cars have suffered neglect and haven't been serviced regularly, take the car for a drive accelerate hard then lift off, and check for blue smoke at the rear, this is a sign that engine work will be required.

The exhaust manifolds tend to be very good on these cars, one area to check is the sprung coupling on the downpipe which is situated just behind the sump, if this is cracked the manifold will need replacing, used ones cost around £50.

Once you have bought your car, one thing that I would strongly recommend is carrying out a cambelt change, regardless of when the previous owner told you when it was last changed. While changing the belt check the pulleys. There was a very big problem with early plastic pulleys (more so on Ecotec engines) where by they broke up causing major engine damage.

The 2.0 16v engine is very well known for its oil leak, the saying "if its not got an oil leak, check you have oil" is not far off the mark. The main area oil leaks come from on these engine is the oil sump. It can be time consuming to repair due to the manifold having to be removed to take the sump off so use as a bargaining point. Another area to look at is the cam cover gasket which is also known to leak.

Check for leaks around the power steering rack, the bellows on the ends will swell and eventually burst, the only cure for this is a replacement power steering rack. If you decide to replace the rack on an early 1992 car then go for a later 1994 spec item as this is a slightly uprated quick rack.

Check that the car has the catalytic converter fitted and also that its working, as a replacement CAT will cost around £200

Suspension:

Front suspension - the front suspension on these cars is the same as that fitted to the MK3 Cavalier and Calibra. The main problems are from the rear bush on the wishbone which is notorious for splitting (especially on lowered cars). Also check for jacking on the wishbone as this damages the wishbone.

Listen for a knocking noise from underneath, this will probably be and anti roll bar link, this sits just behind the front wheels so easy to check.

With high mileage cars dampers may start to feel soggy, especially on early 1992 cars as these had soft dampers, Vauxhall upgraded the dampers on the 1993 onward cars which made them slightly stiffer, but again these feel soggy at high mileage.

Bodywork:

The main area to look for rust on the GSi, (as with most Vauxhalls), is around the rear wheel arch's. Due to their design mud and water collect on the inside and they rust from the inside out. The only real cure for this is replacement rear arch's which costs a lot to put right. Also look for rust around the bottom of the tailgate and around the black panel situated between the rear lights, as well as just below the window rubbers on the edge of the doors.

One known problem is for the sunroof is for the rubber to perish around it, check for damp seats and any staining of the headlining, this is expensive to sort as it requires a full sunroof as rubbers cant be replaced individually.

Check both the headlight and fog lights for any cracks, fog lights alone cost around £100 each to replace.

Interior:

An instant giveaway of a high mileage car is worn seat bolsters on the drivers seat as well as the padding starting to sag on the base of the drivers seat.

Check that the multi-function display above the radio is working and fully illuminated as these are expensive to replace.

One thing I would recommend doing before parting with any money when buying a car is carrying out a full HPI check, this will let you know of any dubious past the car may have, and also gives you a come back should the car not turn out to be what it appears.

DaveMark-GSI
21-12-2005, 06:18 PM
Now Sticky :)

Dave

astragsikev
29-5-2006, 09:23 AM
One very common and known problem on the C20XE engine (2.0 16V from 92-95) is that it is known for heads to have both cracking and porous problems


91-94 for xe aint it ;)

Chas
20-10-2006, 08:51 PM
Bodywork
especially check around the fuel filler area especially behind the the tank filler pipes. mud tends to build up here and then delaminates the fuel filler to rear arch area, if the arches are bubbling, then dont be afraid to poke the area under the sideskirts, the water runs down here and rots the sills from the inside out.
sunroof drain pipes: the front drain pipes are routed into the front of the sills, fecking stupid design and another area that is left open to rot.
Spring seats (rear) not an area that gets checked or washed often and tend to suffer a bit.
Power steering pipes: routed underneath the radiator area, tend to corrode very easily if not looked after.
Fuel tank: Check the fuel tank around the swaged seam and around the point where the pipes exit/enter, themetal is quite thin and a little surface corrosion goes a long way.
Pollen filter: giveaways for this are condensated windows on the inside, they tend not to get checked often, and usually if you lift the rubber seal off, then lift the plastic cover over the pollen filter/windscreen wiper linkage, you will find a soggy filter and blocked drainage holes and pipes. Again this promotes rust in this area.
Suspension: Front strut top rubbers, these tend to age badly, and quite often will split, resulting in the top of the front strut making an unwanted appearance in the engine bay

Station
25-10-2006, 10:33 AM
Bodywork - One of the reasons the rear arches rust is all down to that f*cking sunroof. Because the actual glass part doesn't keep water out (it's part of the design), the water is channelled into the front and rear parts which then flows into four pipes on each corner. Two of these pipes go to the rear quarters - the arches.
There is a rubber grommet at the bottom of the arch which the drainage pipe plugs into (I once pulled out one of these, and a gallon of water came flooding out) - GM kindly put a little flap to stop it getting blocked up, but it always does with mud and grime. The water floods and goes down the headlining into the arches.
I once pulled out one of these, and a gallon of water came flooding out. The problem is terminal if you have a sunroof, you will always get rusty arches!


Suspension - If the strut top mount rubbers are split, the handling will suffer. I changed all the rubbers and bushes on the front, and the handling changed totally, it was so sharp again.

d4ve
5-2-2007, 12:16 PM
not bad

but look under rear bumper for rot - they suffer badly here. around the seams for the tail lights/rear panels also suffer badly from rot.

top mounts are actually an mot failure if split.

dont be afraid to take off towing eye cover and shining torch up skirts to check for rot

along the bottom of the windscreen the plastic can let water in and rot bulkhead - check where wiper motors are.

also check for welding (heard of a lot of cut n shut gsis )

sunroof is the biggest problem as said it eats out inner arches

look out for bulbs going out at identical times. some bodges are to wire abs/tc to other bulbs so you think theyre working

check for damage to subframe/cross members as more than llikely gsis will have had a couple of bumps by now.....