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ABS - Very Annoying ABS Light

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Oct 5, 2023
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Hello, after almost four years of ownership and overseeing a mini-restoration on it, my 1994 Astra has blotted its copybook. Please can anyone offer any advice on my ABS issue as I have hit a brick wall with this. I am not a mechanic, just an enthusiast, so this issue has already cost me a shedload.

When I bought the car, the ABS warning light came on and extinguished as it should, and never ever popped on when it should not. Then after last winter, having been stored in the garage for about four months. When I connected up the battery and started the car, the ABS light came on as it should, but failed to extinguish. I put this down to a low voltage gremlin triggering the light. But with the battery fully charged, as I was sure it was, the ABS light came on and stayed on every time I drove the car.

Being pre-OBD2 my village mechanic did some resistance testing and found the reading on the OSR sensor was very different to the others. So he fitted a new Quinton Hazell branded rear wheel bearing hub unit with ABS sensor. I was thrilled as he phoned to say it had worked. However he had not bothered to test drive the car, so while the ABS light extinguished on start up, leading me to think he had truly fixed it, before I got home ( a 3 minute journey) the ABS light had pinged on again.

As parts are, thankfully, cheap, I have since had both toothed front reluctor rings replaced, two new front ABS sensors and a new NSR wheel bearing hub/ABS unit - so that is all four ABS sensors replaced with brand new parts

My mechanic has been very reasonable in what he has charged me fitting these parts (he is also an MoT tester so I am confident he is thorough in his approach), as the fault still persists, but I sense he is at the limit of what he wants to investigate on my poor Astra and is sick to the back teeth of it!

My own research discovered the paper clip bridging trick to read off ABS fault codes, I have done this half a dozen times and the fault code is always the same, I get code 2-5 which suggests broken or missing teeth on the reluctor ring -- yet I have just had brand new ones just fitted and they did not stop this code being flagged. I did not know about reading the ABS codes like this before the OSR hub/abs sensor was replaced, so annoyingly I do not know what the fault was causing the ABS light to come on during start up and stay on.

So now I have an ABS light that comes on and extinguishes like it should, but pings back on during EVERY journey. It does not come on at a certain SPEED, it has come on at 80mph and at 20mph, I am more inclined to think it comes on after a certain TIME or DISTANCE. I am still only getting the 2-5 fault code reading off the ABS ECU.

I have also had four brand new tyres fitted so that the tread depth of all is identical, this has had not effect either.

If anyone has any ideas I would be grateful to hear them, and rest assured, if I do get to the bottom of this I will update the thread to share my new wisdom.
 
You’re not really left with much apart from the wiring to the abs sensors or the abs pump/module itself.

When I had a similar issue mine was the pump/module
 
Thank you for the reply. I feared it might be the pump assembly at fault, but obviously really hoping it is not. As the fault has manifested itself during my careful ownership I was thinking it must be something simple.

I have since my initial post found out that the ABS light pings on during a journey after two minutes of driving every time, so it is consistent in that respect and about an 8th of a mile, and is not influenced by speed seemingly.
 
Both front reluctor rings were replaced with new and the rears come as a wheel bearing/hub/abs sensor assembly all in one I thought, and both of these have been replaced. The rear has drum brakes on my car and I did not think there were separate rings on the back? I am no mechanic and assumed the sensor and speed ring were housed inside these new hub/bearing assemblies?
 
Make sure the front rings are 29 tooth as they did a 40 tooth but these are rare. Make sure the front sensors have about 1 to 2mm clearance to the ring. The rear hubs have it all built in. I have had issues with new front sensors so used different brand (can't remember name) been fine since.
 
Not sure if this helps. I have a recent thread regarding ABS fault code 19 which i still havent got to the bottom of. Ive been looking for ABS parts and have noticed parts with similar codes certainly arent the same and probably wont work, stands to reason i suppose! The main difference seems to be the number of pins on the main connector, probably for Tc / non Tc variants. Anyway good luck; sorry for making a short story long!
 
Thank you for your replies. The fault code still persists as the same even though the new rings have been fitted, the mechanic did not say if he found any broken or missing teeth on the old ones, I am sure they were the right number of teeth. Actually communication has not been great and original parts have been chucked and now I wish I had said do NOT throw any parts you take off away.

The front sensors were not cheapie ones, I bought premium brand Cambiare of Italy ones, their fitment has not altered the 2-5 fault code.

Latest update is its gone to a different mechanic who is more of an electronics whizz and he said he thinks the new NSR hub assembly is at fault, and did not like it when I said no that was only fitted two weeks ago and the fault code has not changed before or since, that 2-5 fault code and issue started after I had the OSR hub changed a couple of months ago.

The new chap did mention sensor air gap to me actually , which I had not heard of, so I have confidence in him.

I only want to change the ABS pump as a last resort, I just have visions of doing that and still getting the same glitch.
 
Its weird that both of our ABS issues appeared after a period of having a flat battery. I jump started mine and then the light was on, almost as if the ABS ecu was electronically spiked in some way during the jump starting procedure. I now have a code for the brake light switch but the brake light switch is clearly working. I may have another look this weekend.
 
does sound possible that they have been spiked, it's a shame there is no way of looking at the live data, im not sure if the genuine vaux tool can see wheel speed data or anything, ive never seen it or used it!
 
Update - Problem solved!!

I picked up my Astra yesterday from the second guy to look into it. He is a bit of a whizz with electrics and with an older laptop managed to create a test-rig whereby he could watch live data from each sensor as he drove to see what was happening when the ABS light illuminated after 2 minutes. He found odd data from the OSR hub assembly which was fitted about 4 months ago, where the ABS glitch had gone from the ABS light being on constantly after start up, to doing this odd thing of coming on after 2 minutes. Thankfully this was no an intermittent fault, the ABS light was coming on and staying on after 2 minutes of EVERY journey.

I have not had the detailed opinion yet from him, but he says the replacement OSR hub assembly had the incorrect number of teeth inside, which was triggering this damn ABS warning light.

The GM part number I used for sourcing my rear ABS hub assemblies was 9120128 and this cross referenced with Quinton Hazell part number QWB877 (which I had fitted 4 months ago to the OSR), which turned out to have the incorrect number of teeth for my car, yet 9120128 cross references with Comline CHA059 which was fitted about 3 weeks ago to the NSR and has the correct number of teeth, is still fitted to my car and is not throwing any ABS faults.

I have been on 5 separate trips in my Astra since yesterday and the ABS light has stayed off on every journey, so it looks like the new hub assembly that was fitted a few days ago to the OSR has solved the problem, thank goodness for that. I was charged £300 to fix this, £60 plus VAT for the new rear hub assembly and 6 hours labour. Might seem steep, but this guy definitely put the hours in and I really believe he was the only guy I know who could have got to the bottom of this.

I dare not work out the total I have spent having new sensors fitted plus labour on this ABS issue this year, but it is fixed and hopefully this gives hope and hints for others with similar problems.

The final point to note is that fault code 2-5 that it kept pinging with the paperclip test was absolutely right, it was concerned with broken or missing teeth, or in this case too many teeth on a Quinton Hazell branded part. It's just a shame that this early diagnosis capability could not pinpoint exactly which sensor was at fault.

I am inclined to think that the first mechanic was correct when he diagnosed the original 30 year old OSR hub assembly with ABS sensor as being faulty, but the QH hub that I supplied and he fitted was incorrect, despite me getting the part codes correct. When he and I were head scratching our dilemma was do we take the new QH hub assembly off the OSR and see if another new one fixes it, or do we fit a new hub to the NSR so both rear hubs are new and see if that fixes it? We decided to fit the new Comline hub to the NSR.... Had we gone with fitting the Comline hub to the OSR and binning the QH part my ABS light issue would have been solved a month ago and without the £300 bill, but hey-ho!


 
Glad you're all sorted but I'll point out my post above regards number of teeth as I did mention it. The vast majority of 90s Vaux use 29 teeth per revolution but there are a very small number of ABS from that era that use 40 teeth. Just darn annoying when aftermarket parts suppliers can't cross ref correctly and give you the incorrect parts grrr.
 
Thanks you did indeed! I had only seen the new reluctor rings for the front which are a separate part, not being a mechanic I did not know there were also teethed bits concealed inside these rear hub assemblies. I am very glad it is fixed as was beginning to think this might not be fixable.

Off topic - Just when I was back enjoying my Astra, I had another stress at the weekend. Anyone who says that heater illumination bulb replacement takes 15 mins is lying! Only in one thread did it mention that the plug into the HRW switch had to be removed before the flimsy black 3 bulb light bar could be removed, and I had already by that time bent and busted my bulb bar. Not only that but the wiring plug to the display for the clock and OTG was so stuck firm, that it actually pulled the socket off the circuit board and broke the tiny solder joints. Thankfully I found guy breaking a Mk3 and he sold me a display unit and the 3 bulb light bar... only he had bust the latter too, so from two duff bulb holders I was able to solder one to work perfectly so my heater dials would be illuminated for the first time in over a decade.

Imagine my frustration when I went to reassemble my centre console after being dismantled for a month while I sourced parts, and fit the replacement display unit, only to find it was dead, absolutely not a flicker. The seller had sent me a photo of it working before sending it. So I was checking fuses and of course I had fully fitted this display, rather than test it before everything was screwed in. I thought oh well I can do without a clock I suppose but then remembered that my factory radio would be useless as the display also shows the radio frequency. ..

As an absolute last resort, and without any hope it would solve anything, I took the two back light bulbs out of the replacement display, they were both burnt black, swapped in the less blackened ones from the display I had busted and RESULT! Fully working display. I then fitted brand new bulbs as was lucky enough to have some. What are the chances of the bulbs going completely dead from him removing it from his scrapper to me fitting it to my console in a matter of weeks! So for thickos like me, if the backlight bulbs are blown, the clock and radio display will not show anything on the displays and look absolutely dead.
 
i've been caught out by that before, when I bought my first mk3 i thought the lights turned on with the headlamps, then I thought it was fuse. turned out it was every single bulb was blown!
 

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