Want to remove ads? Become a MK3OC Club Member today!

Andy B's Fast Road/Track build

AndyB-Redtop

Club Member
Joined
Sep 20, 2017
Messages
511
Reaction score
77
Location
Llanberis North Wales
Here's mine being welded new sills both sides was in a barn for 8 years
Thank you Shaun... Good job that you've got new sills for it. Are you doing the welding yourself? I've never really been able to weld, I've not had an opportunity to learn to be honest. I would like to be able to weld, i have thought of buying a welder to just practice with, however I'd like to be thought professionally. Anywhere else on your body that requires welding? I had all front/rear suspension turrets welded because they had rusted badly, particularly the rear ones, I strengthened them too by stitch welding them. Had some minor welding work done in the inner rear arches too. Other than that, my Astra wasn't too bad with rust.
I really like your alloy wheels mate, they'd look really smart painted white :thumb:
 

Shauny 66

Club Member
Joined
May 10, 2020
Messages
42
Reaction score
2
Location
PL124JB
No I can't weld either more electrics for me and one is cracked I have a reshelled blue gsi too interior is rough so working on that a present both cars in garage for mot next week typical Blue shell is quite solid bought white one as a doner car but decided to see if we could save her 2k later including cam belt etc respray is next then I'll be happy IMG_20200810_104146.jpgIMG_20200810_104223.jpgIMG_20200810_104213.jpgIMG_20200810_104201.jpg
 

AndyB-Redtop

Club Member
Joined
Sep 20, 2017
Messages
511
Reaction score
77
Location
Llanberis North Wales
Some years ago, I was going to buy a white GSi that came up on e-bay. Went to look at the car here in Wales with the intentions of buying it there and then, However, i decided not to buy it after viewing it because it was smoking quite excessively with blue smoke. After viewing the car, I kept in touch with the lad and he let me know that the smoking turned out to be piston rings. He stripped the engine, re-bored it to 87mm and fitted high compression pistons with some performance camshafts. Anyway... We are still in touch to this day and often speak to each other about our GSi's. Last weekend we decided to meet up in our GSi's. Here's some photos of both together........ His is an L reg with quite a bizarre engine set-up, its 50/50 mixed early/late engine parts. Coscast head, early HH4 block, motronic 2.8, square toothed cambelt, later clutch/flywheel, running a cat.

7F1B41B4-ED47-4325-9D1C-F2FA239E030D.jpeg

BFC614ED-5EBD-4F9D-A16D-E306CEF82A97.jpeg

89095FAB-09F3-42F2-AA13-587CCBC068FC.jpeg

8C3C72D5-20C7-43DA-9677-45CDDEAFAD6C.jpeg

C4CB3B3D-5B76-424B-B1CC-73ED4C80FC79.jpeg

ECF2BDB1-033C-48CE-BD58-0ABB92AE9996.jpeg

E91B4E08-7A5E-40E3-A961-F26DCFF19D1C.jpeg

31AC124B-EC32-4E4A-949F-96A2F495180C.jpeg

1D1FDEEB-1108-4CD1-80B2-656A41FAC849.jpeg

A81170FB-78EF-4B2B-8493-79C1C929F567.jpeg
 
Joined
Feb 23, 2020
Messages
10
Reaction score
0
Location
Poland
I like the brace, looks very nice.... Would have been good to have a before and after with only that in place. I know that if you have somebody dry steer and then look at the front of Astras the amount of panel movement is scary so anything to stop the twisting is a good move in my eyes. :thumb:
Thought that the problem is only with my car but I see thats normal that fenders are moving a little bit when you are moving steering wheel :D I checked it in the other cars and in most of them there's a little fender play but not as much as in astras.
 

AndyB-Redtop

Club Member
Joined
Sep 20, 2017
Messages
511
Reaction score
77
Location
Llanberis North Wales
My alternator packed up on the first day of it being on the road, 150 miles after the MOT. Battery light came on whilst i was driving, so i headed back towards home. It died on me 1/4 mile from home, Fortunately I got towed back home from one of the locals. Not what i expected to break down on the first drive, the alternator is one of very few parts that i hadn't replaced, typical. I jump started the car and it would only run whilst connected to the third party source, after a little charge it ran for a very short while. Battery voltage was 11-12v, not 13-14 as expected. I removed the alternator and had a look inside, It's the early V belt type. It seemed that corrosion was the cause of failure. Some of the copper windings had broken off the terminals inside the alternator, It generally looked old and worn out, so it needed replacing.
I have a friend who lives down the road who has a C20LET Astra GSi, so i thought to ask if i could borrow his alternator for a short while as the car is off the road. I found that it had the later alternator with the ribbed pulley. I took it off anyway to see if i could swap the pulleys over, but the mounting brackets were completely different so it wouldn't fit, i had a gut feeling it wouldn't.
Anyway, i bought a reconditioned alternator from E-Bay for £50, delivered next day. Sorted

37C06E4A-A872-479D-B100-3CDA58BB3362.jpeg


4EFED8C0-F1E3-4B45-AEFA-800C6210B8B3.jpeg

I recently put 99 Octane fuel in the car to see how it would run because the engine often splutters and kind of miss-fires between gear changes and going back on the throttle after a period of coasting. It's quite annoying actually, it's been getting worse recently, I'm not entirely sure if it ties in with when the 99 octane fuel was put in. I felt no difference in the 99 octane to be honest , though i will say that the exhaust note sounded better at certain RPM's. I changed the spark plugs to see if it would cure the spluttering between gear changes, but that didn't change anything, still the same after new plugs. I'm yet to look deeper into what's causing this spluttering, most parts on the engine have been replaced other than coil and leads. The engine has recently been idling very high on start up, when i say high, i mean over 3 thou!! I dare try and drive it when its cold because it misfires so badly. I have to let the engine get up to temperature before i can drive it, As soon as it warms up, the idle suddenly drops down to normal and it runs fine, I'm not sure if it's over-fueling on start up, or if there's something else going on to cause the high idle, but as I said, soon as it warms up, it's perfectly ok... other than the spluttering between gears. I'm beginning to suspect the coolant temp sensor is playing up. No ECU fault codes from flashing them.

Here's the old plugs NGK-R BCPR7E, According to Vauxhall's spark plug guide in the Haynes manual, they indicate that they are overheating. Vauxhall suggests this may be ignition timing off, fuel mixture too low, or fuel Octane (Too low).... Well i can rule that one out as its been running 99 octane.

01AB23BE-0864-4FDE-9B0C-8F9AE0E16576.jpeg

Here are the new Bosch super spark FR7DC+8. Fitted these last week and they made no noticeable difference. Had them out of the engine after doing 50 miles or so and they looked to be in the same condition as the older ones. Though, i must say that they were slightly sootier that the old ones which indicates a rich fuel mixture. Well it has defiantly been running rich on cold start up recently, so i wonder what's causing this, It literally happened over night. I forgot to mention that it wouldn't start one evening, engine just turned over and over with very poor effort trying to fire, ran the battery flat. Then on the following morning, it fired on the first turn, but idled very high. As mentioned, the only thing that's changed is the type of fuel, I ran 99 octane for about 300 miles. I've gone back to normal 95 octane now, but it'll take another top-up of 95 for the tank to flush out any remaining 99. I'll see how it runs this week on the normal petrol and I'll look at things that are likely to cause this spluttering and misfire between gear changes. Has anyone experienced similar symptoms ?

82BBD3F4-C0D1-4E58-B877-93E8FCDC3668.jpeg

A85F6AFD-D830-421A-A5DC-02F7CBA9ECBD.jpeg

5E180D57-88E7-468C-8BFF-8B9A06672030.jpeg
 
Last edited:

astranaut

North West & North Wales Regional Co-ordinator
Regional Co-Ordinator
Club Member
Joined
Nov 8, 2009
Messages
10,858
Reaction score
194
Location
Colwyn Bay
I had that exact problem on my 1.4, it either wouldn't fire cold, or it would but idle at 2k and slowly climb, really having to slip the clutch between changes, enough so I could pull away on idle. I changed the icv, the coolant temp sensor, the plugs, leads, rotor arm, dizzy cap and it still did it. Cleaned up the earths and it still did it but not as bad, gave all the wiring a good wiggle and it sorted it out, so I'm assuming there was/is a poor connection somewhere that will rear its head again, but hopefully not before it comes off the road.
 

AndyB-Redtop

Club Member
Joined
Sep 20, 2017
Messages
511
Reaction score
77
Location
Llanberis North Wales
I've discovered that i have a rather dangerous issue with my brakes after having to slam on them the other week. So I hit hard on the brakes and the back end stepped out and locked-up, fortunately it wasn't an emergency stop so i could ease off. There would of been some serious consequences if it was an emergency, i would of span around and lost control. Next, i decided to put an emergency stop to the test.... Same thing happened again, rear lock-up and stepped out, scary experience and makes your heart skip a beat or two!! Also noticed that the ABS doesn't work, all 4 wheels can lock up, bringing the car to a skidding stop. I've never felt the ABS pump working.

I remember when i first bought the car it behaved like this. I thought a good overhaul of the brakes would possibly sort it out. I've got a brand new master cylinder, all 4 calipers have been rebuilt with new pistons and seals, new copper lines & flexies all round, new fluid and the discs and pads were already in top condition, both front speed sensors are brand new and the rear bearing hubs that have built in sensors are also brand new. I have a good firm pedal. When I apply the breaks in normal driving conditions, they work alright, you wouldn't think there's a problem until you have to apply some force. The rear end will lock up instantly.

After discussing this with my friend, who also has a GSi, he asked if my load proportion valve was ok, the one that fits to the rear axle? I said i didn't have one of those fitted and wasn't aware that it required one to be honest. There certainly wasn't one on the car when i removed the old brake lines, i would of kept it otherwise and would of defiantly took note of it because i kept very specific details when stripping the car down so that i could have some sort of guide to put things back together.

After a bit of researching, i discovered that there are 2 types of rear brake controls for the Astra, one is the above, axle load proportioning valve and and the other is like an in-line resistor that only allows a certain pressure to pass to the rear caliper. These are fit independently in-line to each rear caliper. Neither of these were fitted to my Astra, which now explains why the rear wheels lock up, well, all 4 will lock up because the ABS doesn't work either.

So, I have 2 issues really. The bias control, and ABS not working. I have no warning lights staying on to indicate a fault with the braking system. Does anyone know which of the 2 types of bias control should be fitted on the GSi? And has anyone experienced a non working ABS module before?
 

Todd100

Club Member
Joined
Jun 21, 2012
Messages
1,325
Reaction score
88
Location
Clacton on Sea
Mine has the load valve on the rear beam, I can't say I've ever tried an emergency stop so who knows if it actually works though, I'm pretty sure the in-line adaptors are really hard to come by
 

Todd100

Club Member
Joined
Jun 21, 2012
Messages
1,325
Reaction score
88
Location
Clacton on Sea

AndyB-Redtop

Club Member
Joined
Sep 20, 2017
Messages
511
Reaction score
77
Location
Llanberis North Wales
I had that exact problem on my 1.4, it either wouldn't fire cold, or it would but idle at 2k and slowly climb, really having to slip the clutch between changes, enough so I could pull away on idle. I changed the icv, the coolant temp sensor, the plugs, leads, rotor arm, dizzy cap and it still did it. Cleaned up the earths and it still did it but not as bad, gave all the wiring a good wiggle and it sorted it out, so I'm assuming there was/is a poor connection somewhere that will rear its head again, but hopefully not before it comes off the road.
Thanks mate, yeah all the parts you mentioned there are already brand new other than leads and coil. This has literally happened overnight. The wiring to my coolant sensor has been repaired before, I'll unravel the tape to check the connection. When are you taking the car off the road mate? We could have a meet before winter comes if you'd like? I'd happily wizz down the A55 one evening or a Sat/Sun morning? Llandudno perhaps.....
 

AndyB-Redtop

Club Member
Joined
Sep 20, 2017
Messages
511
Reaction score
77
Location
Llanberis North Wales
Cheers Todd, I've seen that modulator you sent, and I've sourced a second hand pair of those in-line valves. I'm not sure which ones to fit yet though. They say that those axle types tend to seize up easy. I've got to consider what to do with the whole system now really because the ABS module doesn't seem to be working at all. I haven't checked the fuse to that yet actually, where is the fuse to that thing? In the engine bay?
I may re-pipe the system, do away with the ABS and have an in-line bias control valve.
 

Users Who Are Viewing This Thread (Users: 0, Guests: 1)

Top