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argh this car!!!!

Nov 26, 2009
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Stoke on Trent
right ive fitted a new crank sensor sat afternoon and my cam sensor came today so just fitted that to my X20XEV engine however it still red lines at 4000rpm and still showing 0340 (cam sensor) and 0335 (crank sensor) errors?????????
but my engine light isnt on either. so surely they are wired up write??????
i understand that the crack sensor may show because the engines not turning.
ive also done the on for 5 secs then off 30times to clear errors but nothing changed
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If the light is out then technically the fault is fixed. The code will still be stored unless the battery is disconnected for a period of time to remove the code. I've never held much in the turning the ignition on/off etc to remove the code. I find they do disappear once the engine has been started 30 times, if the fault has not re-occurred. You may find that the imposed rev limit is not connected to the cam sensor fault? When the engine limit is reached is it smooth or does the engine act as if its met the actual rev-limiter, ie jerky? If the limit is smooth it could be an air flow meter problem, or poor service parts, such as fuel starvation.

Hope this helps?
it kind of bounces off the limiter a couple of times and if i dont back off the throttle it will flash up the eml and cut out.
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ok, its likely to be the car running in limp mode then, but thats odd as the light should really be on all the time. Double check your cam/crank sensor wiring for any damage. Does the eml stay on or just flash up?. The light has to be on for around 20 seconds to store a code?. This may not be much help but try asking on the vectra owners forum as they deal with siemens/X20XEV's more readily than people with Astras? Does sound cam sensor related though, the position of that sensor is critical too. When you changed it, did it sit in exactly the same place as the old one?
well there was a couple of mm rock side to side in it but cant be sure its where it the old one sat. ive had the battery disconnected for about 5/10mins but that made no difference either.
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is your bottom pulley distorted? that could cause it and is your engine timed up correct? the eml doesnt have to be on to store a code.

how could my pulley be distorted isnt it solid steel?????? before anything else i think ive first got to get the errors to clear from the ecu memory, and or make sure what ive done is correct.

the wire harness with it was pos 1= black
pos 2= red
pos3= yellow
so ive connected blk to white
red to blue
yellow to yellow
ive connected them relivent to position on plug as i cant find any info on this colour harness.
The bottom pulley is 2 bits of metal joined by rubber, they can get messed up, but it will not make any difference to anything other than power steering, alternator or air con.
The bottom pulley is 2 bits of metal joined by rubber, they can get messed up, but it will not make any difference to anything other than power steering, alternator or air con.

makes sense now, thats why ive seen steel bottom pulleys listed as a 'mod'.
cam sensors are tempramental not sure if you brought a genuine item or pattern but i advise a genuine as you get a modified part of loom with the sensor what needs to be replaced (cam sensor)or sometimes a slack cambelt can cause cam sensor fault code to come up
Mines doin tht at the mo but it steadly goes slow 2 5000rpm tht happens just after the 4500 mark weird tht,still i think the loom in the engine bay is fooked as its 15year old now. so i would give tht a shot mate

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