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custom made door cards

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ipswich - suffolk
has anyone on here ever made their own door cards, if so can i get some advice from you on how to make them and what materials to use

i was thinking of an mdf base cut to the shape of the original card but with custom handles and speaker pods, that way i can screw the whole board to the door and there shouldnt be no vibrations from the speakers (hopefully)
 
if youre trying to stop vibrations id get some rubber/foam and seal the outside of the door card with it as well as behind the point where it screws in, in the middle of the card

with regards to doing mdf based cards how would you get around the curves etc on the door?
 
^^^What he said^^^

A plain MDF card probably wouldn't fit very well, and would definitely look boring.

Read this

http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/vbb/showthread.php?t=73733

and this

http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/vbb/showthread.php?p=1318922#post1318922




yeh i checked them but im in need of new door cards anyway as the bracket that hold the clips in are broken in a few places, tried lookin for some in scrappys but no estates to take them from.

i didnt think about the shape of the door as i thought it was straight, oh well i might just take them all apart, retrim the cards (the back doors too) and build a bigger pod to fit somethin that can give big bass in the front, with some decent highs, i was thinking of some low profile 8" subs with 6.5" components or a set of 3 way components, any ideas or thoughts on what may be a good way to go???
 
Putting large drivers in doors isn't a good idea for an ICE novice. Chances are it'll just rattle and be annoying - remember that astras rattle enough as they are. You'd need to be pretty competant with fiberglass/woodworking and be willing to invest in decent sound deadening (which it seems not many Mk3 owners are), your probably looking at £100 worth per door to get a 8" sub playing right.

Apart from the rattling, there's the space issue. You'd have to separate the air space between the sub and 6.5" driver - they're not designed to work in the same enclosure, and there just isn't room inside the mk3 doors to do that. Although a proper 3 way kit would probably be ok but these typically match a 6.5" mid-bass drive to a 4" mid, not a big sub-bass driver. And 3 ways are more expensive.

My recomendadtion would be to build some pods that offer enough clearance for a decent set of 6.5" components then get a sub for the boot. You'll be supprised how low a good 6.5" will go, and sub-bass is non-directional. If you didn't already know it was coming from the boot you'd have a hard time telling at sensible listening volumes.

It does get a lot more obvious where the sub is when you turn it up to 11 tho, especially if you haven't deadened the boot lid and it starts try to shake itself apart.
 
ok, so if i get a spare set of door cards from an estate, mold up some 6.5" pods in the original speaker place, would it be a good idea to angle these upwards a bit so the sound goes up to the people at each side? also would making fibreglass tweeter pods on the pillar be ok or would that put the highs to full on to listen to?

as for the sub i was thinkin of 2 audio system helon 15 spl subs but after a bit of research the size of box they would need i would need a van to put them in so i was thinking of some mutant x 15" subs in the back with the back pannel remoulded with some vibe square 6x9s
 
Angling the speakers is a good idea, yes. 1 method of aiming is to set the speakers so they're pointing at the window of the opposit side.

Tweeters in the A pillars is fine, it's ideal - the idea of that is to get them as far away from your head as possible - so they should be fairly low down on the pillar - not half way up so they're only a few inches from your ears.

You don't need 6x9's if your having subs - especially if they're going to be pointing at eachother with the subs against the back seats and the 6x9's in the trim panel of your boot.

They're an unncessary expense, use the money on better amps/speakers/sound deadening.

You'll also face the same rattling issue as with the subs in the doors - especially if you've got 2 of them bolted to the same flimsy bit of astra boot door.
 

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