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Engine Flush.

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Now i have heard good things and bad things about the engine flushes...

next month ill be servicing the v6 again, now i would like to run some engine flush through to get rid off all the **** etc.

Are they dangerous ? if you have used them what make did you use.

any do's or dont's ?
 

DavebGsi

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i wouldn't use it, u can end up gettin rid of everythin that is keepin ur engine together lol the crap taking up the gaps in component wear as it were,

i've heard of bottom end knockin afterwards
 
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I personally wouldn't put anything other than oil into my lump, and water/anti-freeze in the cooling system. Full stop....

Fresh oil and regular service is all they need....

I've heard mixed results but never been tempted, It just isn't worth it.

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I used to have a Fiat Coupe and used to change the oil quite regularly due to the turbo. I would use cheep oil to flush it as best as possible i.e. change oil and filter for cheep stuff warm up go for a blast then change it again for decent stuff (and another filter). Needless to say I didn't push it to hard or let it get to warm with the cheep stuff in mind. People though it was excessive but you can get 5 liters of oil from Wilcos for about a tenna so it doesn't break the bank. It's obviously not the best stuff but I'd rather have a drop or two of that left in the sump than engine flush.
 

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ive used it twice on a couple of cars and would never again, all the nice coating of oil thats built up over the last 15 years all gets washed away and everything thats worn around them is suddenly loose, one engine smoked like a bitch from then of after using it and the other had a right internal rattle.
 

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Some very deluded people here.
The "crap" that builds up is carbon, this is formed wherever fossil fuels are burnt, such as in a engine, carbon can be very useful, and also very bad.
Excessive carbon can block oilways totally or just restrict the size of the oilways, leading to damage, now ask yourself why you change the oil, and why LPG cars can go FOUR times as long on the same oil and use, and STILL have cleaner oil at the end.
Yep all down to carbon, hence the oil going black, curiously the exact same shade as carbon, yes it needs changing as after a while it becomes saturated tot ally with carbon and becomes abrasive.
LPG produces less than 5% of the carbon that petrol does, hence the oil stays cleaner longer, ideally we would have no carbon.
We can get rid of carbon with a flush, WYNNS for example, I have run it in every car/bike I've ever owned, my present car, a 2wd sapphie cos with around 300bhp is coming up for it's 190,000 mile oil change, sorry that's 190,000 miles on the original un overhauled bottome end.
I think the emissions at 0.97% CO at idle with 137PPM with above mileage and over 40mpg on a run suggest it's fairly healthy, I do use a alternate ecu(emerald K3, best thing I ever did).
The cossie replaced my mk2 escort(1700) automatic, but after fully rebuilding the engine in that went on to do 170,000 miles, used wynns flush always of course.
I'm averaging around 30,000 a year, and don't take it easy by any means, otherwise I would not have modded the cars.
When I have rebuilt my co bottom end in summer it will have a flush prior to every change.
Incidentally I don't follow the bottle directions but run for around 200miles prior to each oil change, and certainly do not take it easy.
"Use cheap oil better than a flush", odd when cheap oil doesn't absorb carbon as well as decent oil, so what is produced contacts the metal and sticks to it, a flush ensures it comes out.
It is 100% TOTALLY true that some engines can be worse afterwards, but then if the engine needs "holding" together by carbon particles the piece of crap engine is well overdue a rebuild anyway!!
A lot of scaremongering comes from I heard this, they said that, etc, truth is early flushes and oils were rubbish compared with today as was the fuelling on older cars, so far more carbon to deal with, the much more agressive flushes some made was way too effecient and flakes used to peel off and cause blockages damage etc.
Modern ones like I use are much better and softer, it may even take 2-3 flushes after each use on new oil for however long between services to clear all the carbon but it will.
Up to you, m,ake sno difference either way to me, just thought you might want another opinion, after spending around £1.2K on my bottom end(cossie) I'll by using it, I wouldn't even chance it if I wasn't totally convinced by it's benefits.
tabetha
 
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see what i mean lol, some people rate it some dont. i have had more no's than yes's though so i dont think i will bother trusting it prolly not worth the hassle.

i might just use the cheap oil idea, with one of them magnetic sumps then put in the decent stuff.
 

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Andy_Mk3

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i use engine flushes everyday, as being a car mechanic, we use forte products and never ever had a problem, they shown us verious tests before we used the product and the results were outstanding. i would never not use a flush when changing oil, my theory there aint no point in putting clean oil in a dirty engine, my astra has 152k serviced every 6k with an engine flush and only uses about a 1/2 a ltr of oil every 6-700 miles . i would reccomened using them.


+1. We use the same stuff at work. It's used on anything from 2 year old VW's to 20 year old rot boxes and it never causes a problem.

I used it in my astra too and it hasn't caused a problem.
 
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see what i mean lol, some people rate it some dont. i have had more no's than yes's though so i dont think i will bother trusting it prolly not worth the hassle.

i might just use the cheap oil idea, with one of them magnetic sumps then put in the decent stuff.

Want a FREE/ish magnetic sump plug, read on.
But a fastener, same as bolt but threaded all the way to suit your sump plug thread, say 3 " long, and a nut to fit, put nut on fastener all the way, now wraps 5-6 wraps of insulation tape on the fastener next to the nut.
Now file, grind, or thiose lucky enough lathe off the rest of the threads, so they gone but no further(not needed).
Now take off tape, unwind nut, noting how it will clean any iffy thread at the same time, can always run a die on it if you have it.
It's not magnetised I hear you shout, get some wire decent thick wire about 3 feet long, strip about 8" out of the centre of the length of wire, stanley knife etc is good here, wrap around the bolt(not threaded part), get some mug to hold each end of the wire onto a battery pos and neg for a few secs at a time, this will magnetise it.
CAUTION thw wire will get seriously hot, and WILL burn so take appropriate measures, you don't need to try and hold for a minute at a time, I find a total of around 20 secs is plenty, if not wanting to magnetise this way, use some jump leads and place the bolt in the circuit between your cars battery and lead that goes to that post, ie so the jump leads extend the circuit of the battery post to the battery connection terminal going to starter etc, obviously be careful not to cause shorts etc, any flow of lectrons will cause magnetism, start a few times it will be well done, won't even get hot, can easily pass the current and a lot more.
Use MILD STEEL ONLY for the bolt not chromed, anodised or SS.
tabetha
 
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Incidentally I don't follow the bottle directions but run for around 200miles prior to each oil change, and certainly do not take it easy.
SWEET BABY JESUS

Whilst I'm on the fence over all with flushing products, this is the most ludicrous thing I have ever heard on the subject. Don't EVER do this.

Engine flush thins out your oil and you do not want to be driving round like that.
 

Andy_Mk3

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SWEET BABY JESUS

Whilst I'm on the fence over all with flushing products, this is the most ludicrous thing I have ever heard on the subject. Don't EVER do this.

Engine flush thins out your oil and you do not want to be driving round like that.

Bloody hell, I missed that bit! I run it at idle for 20-30 minutes max!
 

DavebGsi

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and to the carbon build up thing, my redtop had done 100k wen i took it apart and there was no carbon to be seen anywhere, regualr oil changes will stop this, the main carbon build up is on the vavle and a fuel flush, which i do recommend, will clean injectors and vavles on its way in and out of the cylinder, bp ultimate etc is said to do this too
 

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