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Panth's Emerald Wonder

Pantheraleo

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This is my MkIII that I've owned for almost a decade now. I'm planning on restoring her as she's been neglected for a while and is in need of some TLC.
She flew through her MOT last month needing only a rear number plate bulb, though from the pictures I'm sure you can see, she has a few advisories, namely the rust and rot that's setting in on the sills and wheel arches, brake pipes will need to be replaced soon as well.

Until recently she was mechanically sound, though just recently she doesn't want to start cold. I'm no mechanic so any advice/assistance would be great. Once she does get started she runs beautifully, though again recently there is a distinct lack of power in 2nd gear, it feels like the engine really struggles, it's like that for between 3-5 seconds then it passes and the car is back to full power. I'm not sure if the two are related but something that needs to be looked at for sure.

The rest of the work is body work. The paint has lots of scratches that I hope to sort when the weather gets nicer. There is also a nasty dent in the drivers side rear door that some considerate person gave me. I've reached out to a few dent removal places and they've told me its a body shop job.
So I'm not entirely sure what my plan of action is for that, I guess its either get it sorted in a body shop, or get a replacement door and paint it the same colour.

I also want to fit a remote central locking system, and I'm fairly certain my central locking will need looking at too as my car no longer deadlocks.

Essentially I want to bring her back to as close to showroom condition as is practical. Though those sills and arches worry me as I've never welded in my life and have been told a bunch of horror stories of people slicing their cars up terribly.

Panth

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One of my favorite colours on a mk3 that is :) She defo needs some TLC but sounds like your plans will take care of that. For the poor starting and lack of power there are a few common things to try, one of which being the coolant temperature sensor, when they fail they can make the ECU think the engine is very cold all the time which makes it run very rich. Another thing to try would be a good service, new plugs and HT leads especially if they're old.

Remote locking I've had this kit on my mk3 for the past 7 or 8 years: Remote Keyless Entry for car central lock KE669 - Rightclick

Really easy to wire up, and find the right key blank that matches your key and get it cut, then you have a flip key too :) Just need to transfer the immobiliser chip over.
 
Rare to see Rio Verde get that crusty its usually one of the good colours.
 
Thanks for the tips Andy, if it isn't chucking it down tomorrow I'll have a good look under the bonnet. I asked the place where I get her looked at when the last time new spark plugs were put (I've been pretty hands off with maintenance) and they said they'd get back to me Monday. So it could well be as simple as that. I'll put in an order for that kit tomorrow and hopefully get some time to fit it next weekend.

I think one of the main reasons it got that crusty Kev was because it spent all its life in sunny Cornwall with all that salt air.

I also need to take a look at the central locking in general as it doesn't deadlock and the alarm no longer activates, I'm not sure how easier a fix that is, but something to add to it none the less.

Cheers
 
Thanks Andy, I think you may have saved me a day of farting around on google with that guide. Just looking at all the key codes on the Rclick site, and there are a few that look very similar. Which one do you think is the right one for my key?

Also had a look under the bonnet, the leads didn't look all that bad. But I should know just how old they and the plugs are tomorrow.

Cheers
 

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Been a while since I posted last, mostly because I've been snowed under with work. But finally had a nice dry day which I wasn't working and tried my hand at painting the car. I picked a a point that I could easily sort out if I messed up hugely, though I think for a first time spray it came out alright.
I also used the time to do some cable management to hide cables from the dash cam and hands free kit.

Now that I have some confidence with spraying, the next thing on my list is to get some body filler and tackle the rust on the wheel arches and sills.
I have a feeling that the sills will need to be replaced anyway as I think the rot has gotten too bad, but it'll be a good place to test my filling skills and if I can blend old and new paint to a decent standard.

I'll also be looking at the lock on the drivers side door, as once I get that sorted I can pull the trigger on the RCL kit and get that sorted. Does anyone know how difficult it is to fix/replace the actuator, solenoid or whatever it is that activates the deadlocks?

Cheers

Panth.
 

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Finally got around to having a good look at the drivers side sill, and oh boy. My question is, is it worth even trying to do anything with this?
I'm planning on getting the sill replaced in the summer, but should I do anything with it in the mean time? The passenger side has a few small rust spots that I can deal with but the drivers side is a complete state.

Cheers

Panth.
 

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Mask up the doors (or open them and mask the openings) and take a wire wheel or paint stripping disc on a drill to it, see if there are any holes.
 
So take the flake off and see whats what? I think I can manage that. Then just a bit of filler and paint to stop it completely rotting out?
 
Get it back to bare metal and then a decent rust treatment, it's a structural part so you dont really want filler in it if you can help it.
 
Removed a lot of the crispy stuff. No holes so far. What would you recommend for rust treatment? Is Kurust still what people use?
 
That's what I used in mine the other day, there are better ones out there though, just cant think of the name of it :lol:
 
Hey everyone, been away for a while, but life has been crazy.
I've just had some free time and cash to throw at the ol' girl and splashed out on a right click remote central locking kit. Looking at the diagram supplied and the diagram Andy made it all looks pretty straight forward, though I do have 1 question. Is the 5 pin connector that goes to the immobiliser and foot brake and such, is that necessary or do most people skip this?

Cheers

Panth20200219_121158.jpg
 

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Got it wired up and working, Andy's wiring guide was invaluable. Though I couldn't find where to wire in the indicators, so I've left them for now. She's just passed her MOT, needed a new wishbone and a brake pipe, had a handful of advisories mostly the rust which I'll tackle when the weather gets better. Though I did lose my nearside front indicator lens on the motorway, so got a new pair on the way. Also invested in an op-com, so for the first time since I've owned the car, I have fully functional spare keys.

I am absolutely kicking myself that I didn't do this years ago. But ah well, got it done now.
 

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