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X16XEL cuts out when hot

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Hi, today after parking and shutting it off, I realized I had to move my car to a different spot. It cranked but refused to fire up. After waiting for a bit, it fired back up. I let it idle and saw the temperature gauge rising until it reached ~100 C and the engine cut out. Waited again for it to cool down but this time I went on the highway, it stayed around 90 C and I made it home without any issue which made me think it was the radiator fan. I opened the hood and the fan wasn't spinning.

I searched around and it seems like there are two different fan types, a single speed and a dual speed. I don't know which one I have, but I read that the single speed will start around 100 C and the second speed on the dual speed also starts around 100 C. Before reading this I was sure it was because of the fan not spinning, the engine overheating and the ECU cutting the ignition. But now it seems like it wouldn't shut itself of because of heat, especially not at ~100 C if the fans are setup to start at that temp.

My best guess is that there's some kind of fault when the fan turns on which cuts the ignition for some reason, but I'm a complete newbie when it comes to wrenching on cars so I could be very far off.

Any ideas? It's a -96 Caravan Auto 16v X16XEL, no AC.

Thank you!

EDIT: I also checked the fuse and it was fine.
 
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TubaMagna8

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itd be worth checking the ecu temp sensor, there is two temp sensors one feeds the dash dial and has no input to the ecu, but the second one feeds info to the ecu, its a two pin temp sensor. My Mk3 had the x16xel and it would struggle to start when warm and it was because the ecu temp sender had failed and was reporting wrong temps which meant it over fueled and would flood at cold starts and hot starts, at the same time i changed the air intake sensor too.
 
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itd be worth checking the ecu temp sensor, there is two temp sensors one feeds the dash dial and has no input to the ecu, but the second one feeds info to the ecu, its a two pin temp sensor. My Mk3 had the x16xel and it would struggle to start when warm and it was because the ecu temp sender had failed and was reporting wrong temps which meant it over fueled and would flood at cold starts and hot starts, at the same time i changed the air intake sensor too.
Is this the sensor? Sensor, coolant temperature RIDEX 830C0018 White — Buy now!

Edit: Tried overriding the fan switch and it worked. So it's not a faulty fan at least.

Plugged in my OPCOM I got last month and I had the P0400 - (0) EGR - Not present code. I have had that one for a while though but it might be related?

Also checked the coolant temperature in the software while running and at 90 C on the dash, the software gave 80C and ~2.3V

Edit 2: weirdly enough now it seems to stay between 90-95 C on the dash (81-89 C ECU) idling. Today's a bit colder outside though. I think that at least means there's no problem with the circulation.
 
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Quick additional question; I went and bought some wiring (2.5 mm2), a single fuse holder, and a switch just in case. What's the easiest way to wire it from the engine comp to the inside? Doesn't have to be pretty, just as long as I don't have to have a cable out the window haha.
 

TubaMagna8

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Yes that's the one, The dash sensor isn't the most accurate, but the ECU is worth a try at that price.

Quick additional question; I went and bought some wiring (2.5 mm2), a single fuse holder, and a switch just in case. What's the easiest way to wire it from the engine comp to the inside? Doesn't have to be pretty, just as long as I don't have to have a cable out the window haha.
There should be a few cable runs from the interior into the engine bay, think there is one behind the coolant bottle, Cant remember off the top of my head, Sure someone like Andy_Mk3 will clarify on that one :)
 
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I think I may have located the issue. I checked the coolant level and it was halfway between the bottom and the fill line. Going to check for leaks, but I think it could be related to the EGR failing? I ordered a blanking plate + simulator to delete the EGR to address that.
 
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I think that's the coil pack plug you have circled but I was going to say my mate had a similar issue on his Corsa 1L and when it reached running temp it would cutout and fail to start until it had cooled slightly. We traced his issue to the crank sensor, replaced it and issue sorted. When yours fails to start check you are getting spark and fuel when cracking as it could be the crank sensor if heat related.
 

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