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Just dropped the car off for it's MOT. As I always do I mentioned the EML was stuck on and not to worry - it's got a Fuel Pump Relay Voltage code I gave up trying to cure years ago. This year however I've been told the rules have changed - it's a fail and needs to be fixed.
They said they'll see what they can do but I'm not hopeful as I spent ages trying to sort it before. A new relay had no effect. When cleared the code would always return. Sadly my old laptop with the Op-Com is now long gone.
I had a look at the latest MOT changes MOT rule changes: 20 May 2018. It doesn't specifically mention the EML but I'm thinking maybe the tester can interpret these first two clauses:

"Dangerous A direct and immediate risk to road safety or has a serious impact on the environment. Do not drive the vehicle until it’s been repaired. Fail.
Major It may affect the vehicle’s safety, put other road users at risk or have an impact on the environment.Repair it immediately.Fail."

Anyone else have this issue with an MOT?
 
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Just found these details on: MOT inspection manual changes

New items that you’ll test from 20 May 2018 are:
  • brake fluid contamination
  • additional braking device performance
  • daytime running lamps
  • front fog lamps
  • reversing lamps
  • bumpers
  • prop shafts
  • all rear drive shafts
  • cab security
  • cab steps
  • floors
  • passenger hand grips (quads and heavy trikes only)
  • noise suppression material
  • undertray security
  • emission control equipment:
    • oxygen sensor
    • NOx sensor
    • exhaust gas recirculation valve
    • other emission control equipment
  • engine malfunction indicator lamp <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
  • diesel particulate filter (DPF) tampering
  • fluid leaks - engine, transmission and so on
 
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Hi Andy, yes I wish I'd known earlier I'd of put it in early to get a bit more breathing space.

I've just picked up the car, it's also failed on front wishbone bushes so I'll be sorting that out first.

Just found my old notes - the code was P0230 - Fuel Pump Relay Voltage High.

Interestingly the MOT tester said when they checked the codes they found a camshaft sensor error too which cleared ok. That must be a legacy from my cambelt repair last year.

I did try fitting a new fuel pump relay (behind the panel in the footwell) to no effect. I did notice the fuel tank vent valve was very near in the wiring diagram, and it did actually fail recently. However replacing this didn't help either. I wondered if it was giving a false reading to the ECU.

I need to sort myself a new OP-Com reader.
 
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Front wishbone (rear) bushes are sorted, but now the EML issue.

I eventually managed to get some more ebay OPCOM software to run off a Win 7 laptop.

I’m wondering now if the alternator is over charging as the fault code (P2030 - Fuel Pump Relay Voltage High) is “present” only when the engine is running.

Back when I got the car (with the EML stuck on) the alternator did promptly fail and was overcharging as I recall. I swapped in a recon one off ebay but maybe this too isn’t right. One of the screen shots shows a system voltage of 14.7V which seems a bit high.

I’ve just ordered a s/h ECU off fleabay but meanwhile I think I ought to try to swap back the (hopefully sorted) original alternator to see what that does.
P0230VoltHighPresent.JPG P0230VoltageHighNotPresent.JPG DSC02710.JPG DSC02704.JPG DSC02745.JPG
 

astranaut

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Don't forget you'll need the key and transponder ring for the new ecu as well. 14.7 seems about right for when the engine is running though.
 
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Ahhhhhhhhh yes the key.... Knew I was getting too hopeful about this.
And yes and the charging voltage isn't really too great.
I'll have a bit more of a think, before perhaps following this course of action:


RIP Burt...
 
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Dug out the spare alternator but before swapping it in just did a test by running the engine with the auxiliary belt removed. Even with the constant lower battery level the same "P0230 - Fuel Pump Relay Voltage High" fault code keeps reappearing. I'm wondering now if the original alternator regulator fault all those years back damaged the engine ECU.
DSC02768.JPG DSC02782.JPG DSC02788.JPG DSC02786.JPG
 
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If only there was another 1998 Astra Arctic 1.6 16v , 50k, fsh, within 20 miles available for only £120....;)
 
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Yes thank you, your car is very much on my mind!
It would be great to have double Astra ownership. May panic the neighbours though - there are still some around who remember my Hillman Imp years - garden was full of them. This may be the best option though.
I've the spare ECU coming and I need to try to find another wiring diagram other than the one in Haynes as I seem to keep finding extra relays in my car.
This lamp will not beat me.
EWL.JPG
 
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ECU arrived today so I gave it a go. Sure enough the EWL just blinked and it put up a code P1503 <unknown DTC>, on the web I see it listed as Immobiliser Incorrect Signal. As astranaut said no good without the key & transponder.
Spooky seeing a Vin code from a scrapped car in it.
DSC02810.JPG DSC02817a.JPG DSC02822.JPG DSC02823.JPG

Was thinking again about the P0230 - Fuel Pump Relay Voltage High code. I checked the -ve connection on the fuel pump and there is no resistance to ground there. Years back I did think of trying a new fuel pump but was horrified at the cost, especially as it seemed to work fine.
DSC02808.JPG

Just for some therapy I ran the OPCOM with the check light test:
DSC02805.JPG DSC02807.JPG
 
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Spent another few hours checking things over again. I saw on another forum someone recommending ecustogo.co.uk so have contacted them. Then maybe book in for some counselling as I'm seeing these in my sleep:

EWLc.JPG P0230.JPG
 

Kev_mk3

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Take the clock out and pull the bulb or black insulation tape over it and don't worry about the light..
sadly you see the EML on start up so if you do that its a fail also now with the new rules
 
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I've heard of people wiring them up to go on and go off again. Or splicing it into the oil pressure light so it looks normal for mr mot
 
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Take the clock out and pull the bulb or black insulation tape over it and don't worry about the light..
Yes always considered doing this as it was so annoying anyway. Do like the oil pressure switch link up idea - but not just yet. I wish there was provision in the rules for a known fault to be left for the tester's judgement, but I guess there's always the worry something else will crop up unseen and cause an accident.
I'll wait to hear what ecustogo say. In meantime I'll put the rest of it back together. The aux belt had several odd tiny splits in it so I've another on it's way. It's not that old really but as it's accessible now I'll treat it to a new one.
DSC02797.JPG
 

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My friend did that last week, nice big fail with BLACK TAPE WONT HIDE IT in brackets for all who checks his mot history to see....
 
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Just heard from ecustogo, sadly they can't do Mk3s. Trying ecutesting now...
 
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Ecutesting have just replied - sadly they can't do any coding or code swapping.
Have emailed H&V Auto Electrical (South Croydon) but also I've just been put onto a local guy with a Tech2 reader who may be able to help. Looking increasingly unlikely though that I can just recode the s/h unit.
 

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