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vauxhall corsa combo isuzi engine starting problems

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micky

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Changed the glow plugs (£50 ouch) to see if it rectifys the cold start issue i have been having the last couple of days.

I have been told if this fails it could be a non return valve failure. Now what is one of them when its at home and is it a big job to do?
 
what exactly are your starting issues mate? and £50 sounds abit steep for glowplugs, ya can get decent ones from Motaquip for about £6 each though the dear ones are £12 a piece.
 
Turboshed said:
what exactly are your starting issues mate? and £50 sounds abit steep for glowplugs, ya can get decent ones from Motaquip for about £6 each though the dear ones are £12 a piece.
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The car was getting its MOT done so i got them to replace them and the plug was about £10 plus vat each.
Cold starts the van wont start if left more than 6 hours. Takes a good two minutes of constant turning of the ignition to get it to fire up. In the process i have killed the battery and hurt my starter motor.

I been told it could be some kind of return fuel valve failure and that could cause the starting issues?
Van starts fine when warmed up.
 
Hey Micky,

Just thought I should mention another possible cause of cold start problems on that engine is the valve shims. There's a TIS 2000 tech note that describes a cold start problem caused in the 1.7 Isuzu engine by too low comression. It says there is a "reduction of valve clearance caused by excessive seating of intake valves in the valve seat"...

Cheers, Paul
 
paul.spencer said:
Hey Micky,

Just thought I should mention another possible cause of cold start problems on that engine is the valve shims. There's a TIS 2000 tech note that describes a cold start problem caused in the 1.7 Isuzu engine by too low comression. It says there is a "reduction of valve clearance caused by excessive seating of intake valves in the valve seat"...

Cheers, Paul
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Cheers paul thats what they said its all jargo n to me i just remember valve return and gapping of valves. They said its a time consuming job also.
 
Sounds like a lot of work but when this came up a few times not so long ago I think there were a couple of posts by people who had managed to complete the job fairly easily - do a search on here for "shims" and find out who did it.

IIRC I think they removed the shims, had them machined for a couple of pounds each and all was good after refitting them....
 
Top man Paul :)

Tbh, I've not know these engines to have many problems, and easily do over 300k.
But Paul is usually right. I would have said maybe issues with the stop solenoid on the pump, but it starts fine when warm it just cold starts being the issue
 
Turboshed said:
Top man Paul :)

Tbh, I've not know these engines to have many problems, and easily do over 300k.
But Paul is usually right. I would have said maybe issues with the stop solenoid on the pump, but it starts fine when warm it just cold starts being the issue
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LOL, nah just repeating stuff I heard on here. I guess I'm just somewhat obsessed with these diesel engines, both the GM (like mine) and Isuzu...
 
paul.spencer said:
LOL, nah just repeating stuff I heard on here. I guess I'm just somewhat obsessed with these diesel engines, both the GM (like mine) and Isuzu...
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Lol, its the MPG's (K/litre) that you like i think Paul.


As to the starting issue, I am not convinced it is low compression that is causing the poor coldstarts, as there will be less compression when hot, yet it starts fine. Also how long are you actually leaving it after the glow plug light has gone out?
 
Hey, this may sound stupid but rereading the thread from the beginning I was just wondering it could be as simple as that common problem of air leaking into the fuel filter on standing - you know, it then requires heaps of cranking to get it going. Warm starts easier because fuel filter is not yet full of air again.

Just sounded a bit like that kind of problem people have described. You didn't happen to check or change the fuel filter before this problem showed up did you? Might be worth checking the fuel filter (and maybe just install a new one), particularly after standing several hours or overnight. See if it is completly fuel of fuel as it should be. Don't give me a hard time - I just reckon it would be good to rule out an air leak problem before getting into more expensive...

(And you are absolutely right there Turboshed, my old Astra is by far the cheaper car to run at this point which means a lot to me!)
 
paul.spencer said:
Hey, this may sound stupid but rereading the thread from the beginning I was just wondering it could be as simple as that common problem of air leaking into the fuel filter on standing - you know, it then requires heaps of cranking to get it going. Warm starts easier because fuel filter is not yet full of air again.

Just sounded a bit like that kind of problem people have described. You didn't happen to check or change the fuel filter before this problem showed up did you? Might be worth checking the fuel filter (and maybe just install a new one), particularly after standing several hours or overnight. See if it is completly fuel of fuel as it should be. Don't give me a hard time - I just reckon it would be good to rule out an air leak problem before getting into more expensive...

(And you are absolutely right there Turboshed, my old Astra is by far the cheaper car to run at this point which means a lot to me!)
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That's a good point actually Paul, one I didnt think of, cracked housing or damaged seals on the diesel filter, that would cause bad starts as it needs to draw more fuel into to displace the air. As suggested, replace the filter and see it that cures it. Also check your fuel system for any leaks or splits in the pipes as that would let air in and so cause problems.

Haha, its all about cheapness eh Paul, gotta love it :). Mate of mine runs a Commodore VY (5.7L V8) and he gets 100km to 13 litres i think. works out about 22mpg here. recently myself did a few longer trips and got a healthy 52.6 mpg (estimated) which is still good for an old car
 
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