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Please help!

godzilla

godzilla

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Im in huge need of help here as my Astra estate failed its MOT meaning I have to use my Astra 2.0 8v SRI which is up for sale.

The car runs like a dream until earlier. The hose from the airbox to the throttle bodie had a slight split (been like this for ages) so I decided to wrap some insulating tape around it, just to see if it made any performance differance. Whilst I was taping the hose up I took the airfilter out, gave it a good shake and cleaned inside the airbox. I also made 8 x 8mm holes with my drill on the front of my airbox to give her a throaty noise. Put everything back together and she idled very strange. Took her out for a drive and very bad flat spots with low acceleration. So everthing was taken off that I had taken off. Insulating tape around pipe removed so back to the little split and covered as many of the holes as I could with insulating tape as I could.......still no joy, infact she was getting worse as I depressed the throttle. Now she makes a very deep/low burrble noise under trottle then cuts out. A light has also come on the dash. Its a yellow light thats beside the handbrake light. The yellow light has a kind of thunderbolt looking thing going through it?

Any help would be great as I need her for work tommorow and I cant even move her off the drive at the mo'.

Paul.
 
flash the codes off using the guide at the top of the mech section or go to topbuzz.co.uk also search on here for 'paperclip' it will tell whats wrong with your car.
 
ive never heard of drilling your airbox upsetting a car so much but that must be what it is, unless by some major misforntune somethin has broken at the same time. sure u did break/dissconnect anythin. lame question but always worth double checking
 
Thanks Dave. I dont think I have broken anything. I did have to fight with the airbox to get it out as it was held in by 2 rusty bolts. Could it be the air flow meter suddenly deciding to pack up?

I tried starting her a few mins ago. She starts straight away then cuts out after 2 seconds no matter how hard I press the accelerator?
 
Just tried the diagnostic test. It did the intial flash, pause etc. Then it did 3 fairly fast flashes followed by 7 fairly fast flashes, pause then did the same again a few times......any ideas?
 
iirc that would mean its code 37, what is it on the list?
 
bit odd, there isnt a fault code 37

unplug the airflow metre (electrically) spray some wd40 into both halves of the plug/socket, then plug and unplug it several times.

then plug it in firmly
 
Ok.....here is the latest!

I have un-plug the AFM & it still does the same thing, runs for 2 seconds then cuts out.

Taken a fuel hose off the goes to the injectors. Turned the engine and it squirted petrol, so not a problem with fuel.

Taken the dizzy cap off and turned the engine, rotor arm spins fine.

Anymore ideas, suggestions?

Thank you.
 
Engine ECU fault codes 2.0 8v, 16v, Ecotech, Turbo, V6

Dis-engage the diagnostics plug from its socket.
This is positioned at the rear of the engine bay on the passengers side on cavalier/calibra’s, on the astra3 it’s in the fusebox, and on vectra’s around the handbrake and omega on the panel by the fusebox.

It has 10 pins.
Short pins A & B to read the engine ecu codes. Brown & Brown/yellow
16 pin connectors, On the Vectra / Omega short pins 4 & 6

Start the engine, management warning light will start to flash as follows.

The code 12 is first flashed three times, this is a marker.
If a code is stored it is then flashed three times.
The code 12 is then flashed three times, this is a separator.
If a 2nd code is stored it is then flashed three times or the first code is repeated.
The code 12 is then flashed three times, this is a separator.
etc

Once all codes have been displayed then stop engine and remove wire.

To clear codes you should disconnect the battery for a minimum of
10 minutes and then re-connect. This also has the effect of resetting
the ECU parameters to their defaults and forces the adaptive learning
circuits to start again. Within approx. 200 miles the ECU will have
adapted.


12 Diagnosis Initiation / separator
13 Oxygen sensor - open circuit
14 Coolant temperature sensor - voltage low
15 Coolant temperature sensor - voltage high
16 Knock signal circuit - no voltage change
17 Knock signal circuit 2 - no voltage change (V6)
18 Knock control module (ECU)
19 Incorrect RPM signal (Crankshaft sensor - incorrect signal)
21 Throttle position sensor - voltage high
22 Throttle position sensor - voltage low
23 Knock sensor - out of range
24 Speed Sensor (MPH)
25 Injector 1 - voltage high
26 Injector 2 - voltage high
27 Injector 3 - voltage high
28 Injector 4 - voltage high
29 Injector valve 5 - voltage high (Fuel pump relay voltage low)
31 No engine RPM signal Engine not running (Crankshaft Sensor - No Signal)
32 Fuel pump relay - voltage high
33 Map Sensor (Voltage High)
34 Map Sensor (Voltage Low)
35 Idle Control Valve Stepper Motor (No Idle Speed Control)

38 Oxygen circuit - voltage low (weak)
39 Oxygen circuit - voltage high (rich)
41 1 gear ident switch - voltage low C20LET OR EST Line Coil Cylinder 2 & 3 (Voltage High) M2.8 / XEV
42 1 gear ident switch - voltage high C20LET OR EST Line Coil Cylinder 1 & 4 (Voltage High) M2.8 / XEV
43 Linear EGR System XEV
44 Oxygen circuit - voltage low (weak)
45 Oxygen circuit - voltage high (rich)

47 Linear EGR Position XEV
48 Battery voltage - low
49 Battery voltage - high
51 ECU faulty (memory failure)
52 Check engine light - voltage high
53 Fuel pump relay - voltage low
54 Fuel pump relay - voltage high
55 ECU faulty (Hardware fault)
56 Idle air control - voltage low (or high !?!)
57 Idle air control - voltage high (or low !?!)

61 Fuel tank vent valve - voltage low
62 Fuel tank vent valve - voltage high
63 EST Line Coil Cylinder 2 & 3 (Voltage Low) M2.8/XEV
64 EST Line Coil Cylinder 1 & 4 (Voltage Low) M2.8/XEV
65 Idle CO potentiometer - voltage low
66 Idle CO potentiometer - voltage high
67 Idle position switch - voltage low (idle position switch not opening)

69 Intake air temperature - voltage low
71 Intake air temperature - voltage high
72 Full position switch - voltage high (full load not opening)
73 Air flow sensor - voltage low
74 Air flow sensor - voltage high
75 Torque control - voltage low (Transmission Switch)
76 Torque control - continuous (Transmission Switch)

79 Full load inhibitor - voltage low (Traction Control Signal)
81 Injector valve 1 - voltage low
82 Injector valve 2 - voltage low
83 Injector valve 3 - voltage low
84 Injector valve 4 - voltage low
85 Injector valve 5 - voltage low
86 Injector valve 6 - voltage low V6
87 A/C cut-off relay - voltage low
88 A/C cut-off relay - voltage high

92 Cam shaft sensor failure XEV
93 Hall sensor - voltage low (Quad Driver Module)
94 Hall sensor - voltage high
95 Hot start valve - voltage low
96 Hot start valve - voltage high
97 Ignition/Injection cut off - voltage high (Traction Control Signal)
113 Boost control out of range
114 Boost pressure Idle above upper limit
115 Boost pressure Full below lower limit
116 Boost pressure Full below upper limit
117 Wastegate valve - voltage low
118 Wastegate valve - voltage hig
 
b008.jpg
 
Latest news!

I replaced the rotor arm and took the battery terminals off for 20 mins. Re-started and ok, not cut out. Took her out for a little drive......engine mangment light still on and she is low and a bit jerky when the throttle is pressed, not nice and free revving like she used to be.

So I now have to find the cure for the low power/jerky?
 
godzilla said:
Latest news!

I replaced the rotor arm and took the battery terminals off for 20 mins. Re-started and ok, not cut out. Took her out for a little drive......engine mangment light still on and she is low and a bit jerky when the throttle is pressed, not nice and free revving like she used to be.

So I now have to find the cure for the low power/jerky?
Click to expand...

This is what I'd do first

Check for an air leak between AFM and INLET.
Fit New Plugs and Dizzy cap and leads
Check Connections to Coil
 
I changed the leads, dizzy cap and plugs a few weeks ago. Did'nt think it would cost soooo much!

£38.95 for dizzy cap
£36.49 for HT leads
£12.95 for plugs
Total of £88.39.....ouch!

I have used Bosch parts though, except the dizzy cap!

Bought a rotor arm today for £5.69
 
Ok......just doen the paper clip test again! Tried it 3 times to be sure!

Here goes....

After the first 3 code 12's it does this.....

7-4
7-4
7-4
3-1
3-1
3-1

then back to the code 12's.

Any ideas as im a bit confused on how to work these codes out!
 
31 is the crank sensor, which is normal if you do the test without the engine running
 
I have found out that the code for my car is this problem......

74 Air flow sensor - voltage high


What does it mean though....im not the most mechanically minded guy by the way!

What needs repairing/replacing?

Many thanks for all help so far

Paul.
 
makes sense, since thats what you disturbed during your work.

my book says

Short circuit to battery voltage in signal lead of mass air flow meter(Ter.3 on plug of mass air flow meter)
Click to expand...

suggests a wiring problem, harness or the wires themselves
 
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