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TPS low voltage over and over when replaced

courier6ix

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Mk3 Astra TPS low volt (22) code and hitching in low revs

Had this happen a few times and replaced the TPS each time but it keeps comming back not sure why gonna go chase the wires a bit. Each time I replace the TPS the hitching stops for a while.

We also had an issue with the fueling on throttle too before we advanced the timing where if you didnt slowly press the peddle it would not fuel correctly and try to stall, it still does this but only if you stomp the throttle flat to the floor.

There’s another issue too where sometimes when off throttle the engine breaking would be so aggressive you’d think I was pressing the brakes untill idle and then letting off (it does this constantly when TPS is unplugged)

It’s a x14ne I think but it’s the SPI hi-torque.

Not sure if any of these issues are 100% related but if anyone has had experience or any ideas that would be great!
 
Can you check the voltage at the tps while connected.much better then when disconnected as no load.
You should have a
pin at 5V(sesnor supply)
0V(sensor ground) and
one between 05/1.0V(closed throttle) sensor signal
You can then slowly open throttle and watch sensor signal raise to 4-5/4.99 volts smoothly
 
Can you check the voltage at the tps while connected.much better then when disconnected as no load.
You should have a
pin at 5V(sesnor supply)
0V(sensor ground) and
one between 05/1.0V(closed throttle) sensor signal
You can then slowly open throttle and watch sensor signal raise to 4-5/4.99 volts smoothly
How would I do this? I have a multi meter

I assume I’d have to use the multi pins into the wires (Idk which to which) or what setting to put the multimeter on
 
So I asked my dad to walk me through checking and my TPS shows steady voltage etc is all correct (had multi meter on 20v and it shown 0.4 at closed at 4.23 at fully open if I remember correctly)

So I think my issue is wiring or dirty connections to ECU or my ECU is cooked or something lol
 
So I asked my dad to walk me through checking and my TPS shows steady voltage etc is all correct (had multi meter on 20v and it shown 0.4 at closed at 4.23 at fully open if I remember correctly)

So I think my issue is wiring or dirty connections to ECU or my ECU is cooked or something lol
That’s probably about right mate.did it go up smootly?
 
Id say its unlikely ecu as they hardly ever fail.
Possibly dirty connection on exu pins.could unplug it/clean and plug back in a few times
 
Also tps code may not be the actual fault you are seeing.if its hunting and going lean id say you have an air leak
 
Sorry fat fingers TPS code may not be relevant
Does it come straight back?
 
Also tpa code may not be the actual fault you are seeing.if its hunting and going lean id say you have an air leak
Interesting… it behaves this way then I get the eml and sometimes it behaves this way without eml but its always on very very low throttle and revs
 
Generally if it is a hard fault with wiring or sensor it will come straight back as soon as you drive it/switch it on and off a 3 times.
 
Well I thought this too
Generally if it is a hard fault with wiring or sensor it will come straight back as soon as you drive it/switch it on and off a 3 times.

so do you think it could be faulty ECU? I was told it also could be a bad earth somewhere.

I think with the other issues i mentioned I’m gonna have a fun time ironing out the kinks.
 
On the wiring diagram the ground goes straight back to the ecu.
So if there are no other fault codes unlikely to be a ground.and as your sensor signals are ok it looks like its not wiring.
Its a single injector?
Are they new or used TPS?
Also check for air leaks
 
On the wiring diagram the ground goes straight back to the ecu.
So if there are no other fault codes unlikely to be a ground.and as your sensor signals are ok it looks like its not wiring.
Its a single injector?
Are they new or used TPS?
Also check for air leaks
All were brand new TPS but cheap shite (I say cheap but still 20/30£), it is SPI and with the air leaks issue we were originally missing a vac tube from the intake hat and we’re not really sure where they all go so I need to find a vac tube diagram.

There is a split pipe from the brake servo to the actual intake manifold (the hard plastic one with a knot on) but it’s at the connection side of things and I don’t currently have a replacement I was thinking maybe wrapping a load of electrical tape round it for a quick fix lol.
 

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