ASTRA F C16SE long time issue with no resolve. Please HELP!!

[Varnis9]

Hi Varnis9,

Thank you for your input.

I'll do the test as you described anyways as I've been struggling with this for very long and will do and redo everything and anything just to get this figured out but I respectfully disagree with your statement. My multimeter was set in resistance mode but when there is an open circuit my multimeter indicates so with "OL" (open line) 0 ohms on my multimeter just means the resistance is less than what it can display, doesn't mean it's absolutely 0, so the change from OL to 000.0 when touching the probes means it is reading something, just can't display the value.

Ok. In the meantime, check your ground wires. There should be one from the chassis to the gearbox. One from the battery -ve to the chassis. And also ecu loom should be grounded somewhere on the engine, usually on the injector rail. I would also check the ground resistance of the MAP sensor to its grounding location, and also to the battery -ve. I know it is a pain, but since you are getting an error there it might be of use.

 

[svdwest]

Ok. In the meantime, check your ground wires. There should be one from the chassis to the gearbox. One from the battery -ve to the chassis. And also ecu loom should be grounded somewhere on the engine, usually on the injector rail. I would also check the ground resistance of the MAP sensor to its grounding location, and also to the battery -ve. I know it is a pain, but since you are getting an error there it might be of use.

Will do and give feedback again, thank you

 

[DavebGsi]

0 ohms means open circuit. It has to have some resistance. Engine off, ignition off, put your voltmeter in resistance mode and measure again. From every ground point to battery -ve.

no it doesn't lol

when you think about it, 0 ohm is a perfect connection, no resistance at all
open circuit would be an infinite amount of resistance. Open circuit is the same as have no connection or something which doesn't conduct electricity, like air. So if possible open circuit would be 9999999999999 ohm etc

 

[svdwest]

Hi everybody,

Apologies for the long wait, we had 2 weeks of non stop rain so I couldn't test. Rain cleared up yesterday so hopefully I'll be able to test later on today again.

Varnis9

 

[svdwest]

0 ohms means open circuit. It has to have some resistance. Engine off, ignition off, put your voltmeter in resistance mode and measure again. From every ground point to battery -ve.

Good day Varnis9

So I finally managed to get a gap between all the rain to test, all ground points from -ve test 0.01 ohms

Problem still persists

 

[DavebGsi]

In that case i'm stumped. would be good to see a video of the issue

 

[svdwest]

I believe I might have found the source of the issue.

On Friday morning I was checking oil water etc. before heading out and out of my frustration I decided to unplug my TPS sensor just for the heck of it because why not. While driving I realized that the issue is no longer there. I pulled in at the auto elec that also gave his attempt at finding the issue to no avail a while back. We swapped out the sensor with a 2nd hand one, plugged it in and no problems since then apart from when it's very cold early in the morning which could indeed be a wire there. Which means that I spent a ton of money on TPS sensors in the past that were consecutively duds as I've got like 12 of them brand new in my drawer, none of them previously resolving the issue, maybe a bad batch I don't now, maybe because it's after market it was the incorrect resistance Values within the tps sensors I don't know.

I do however feel that the engine is a bit sluggish/lazy now as I know what power these motors have but fuel efficiency has definitely increased, maybe some input on that next?

I am just grateful for not having that annoying jerking feeling anymore.

Thank you for everyone's input, I truly appreciate it.

 

[Varnis9]

I still believe this is a wiring issue. At least by the sounds of it. Is the gearbox grounded to the battery? Can you send a few pictures of the engine bay?

 

[Varnis9]

I believe I might have found the source of the issue.

On Friday morning I was checking oil water etc. before heading out and out of my frustration I decided to unplug my TPS sensor just for the heck of it because why not. While driving I realized that the issue is no longer there. I pulled in at the auto elec that also gave his attempt at finding the issue to no avail a while back. We swapped out the sensor with a 2nd hand one, plugged it in and no problems since then apart from when it's very cold early in the morning which could indeed be a wire there. Which means that I spent a ton of money on TPS sensors in the past that were consecutively duds as I've got like 12 of them brand new in my drawer, none of them previously resolving the issue, maybe a bad batch I don't now, maybe because it's after market it was the incorrect resistance Values within the tps sensors I don't know.

I do however feel that the engine is a bit sluggish/lazy now as I know what power these motors have but fuel efficiency has definitely increased, maybe some input on that next?

I am just grateful for not having that annoying jerking feeling anymore.

Thank you for everyone's input, I truly appreciate it.

Is the TPS the adjustable one?

 

[Karlos]

Just a idea you say the car is down on power is the engine timing ok? Check the key way on the crankshaft to make sure its not broken or starting to break as the slight movement in the pulley will reduce the power

 

[svdwest]

Hi everybody,

The tps is not the adjustable one and timing is 100%, key is also 100%, all brand new.

However I have now finally found out the final problem which resolved power loss, idling, jerking etc. the car hasn't run this smooth since 2019. It was actually such a silly issue I really feel like a **** but hey, I'm happy it's resolved.

Here goes:
As I stated before, yes the TPS was definitely an issue, I opened one of my 20 new ones laying around which is definitely more sturdy and better quality and found the manufacturing fault which I repaired. This already improved again but as a result I had 1 remaining error code - Air Temperature Sensor High voltage.

I proceeded to test the sensor which was good and I measured wires again, which again, tested good but this time I accidentally dropped the plug wire. I grabbed on the one of the two wires and out came the wire from the rubber seal. So ultimately I opened up the plug, lone and behold both the wires were indeed broken off at the terminal inside the plug. So all this time I've been unplugging the plug and pressing on the terminals with my multimeter, it would push the terminal to make contact with the wires, hence testing good, and as you can imagine, after plugging it back in, the problems persist and it was just the snug rubber holding the wires in place. after I repaired that, the car is running as perfect as it possibly could. It's got it's power back, no jerking and running very smooth.

I'm so happy.

Thank you again for all your input.