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Bolts (x3) stuck on water pump?
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i wouldnt, just find a torx bit thats only slightly too big, then use a longbar and lots of frustration and anger to lever it in the hole, or if you know someone with some gas, heat them up and try and turn them. Cutting them off is just going to make you life harder in the longrun
Went to my local 'independent' tool shop that is basically a small shop with the walls filled with absolutely random bits of everything and got one of these for 8 quid:
Bolt Extractor by Jibijib, on Flickr
Was dubious over preference to those other stud extractors linked above, but this looked handier. I asked the bloke if he had any and just ummed, reached behind him and said 'Like this?'.
It closes on a bolt similar to a stilson wrench, and applies torque to the bolt as you turn. It took two bolts out instantly. This awesome thing saved me hours of trouble.
Bolt Extractor by Jibijib, on Flickr
One bolt was inaccessible so I just drilled it out. The whole bolt was drilled out and another can go in no problem.
C14SE Water Pump Bolt by Jibijib, on Flickr
The pump was encased in the building up that is throughout the coolant system in the car, and I thought it would be trouble, but a tap with a hammer and it fell out:
C14SE Water Pump Removed by Jibijib, on Flickr
It's intact, head gasket was replaced in 2002, so not sure if everything else was done at the time.
C14SE Water Pump Intact by Jibijib, on Flickr
Not sure what those tools are called, but I highly recommend them, they are completely awesome.
Bolt Extractor by Jibijib, on Flickr
Was dubious over preference to those other stud extractors linked above, but this looked handier. I asked the bloke if he had any and just ummed, reached behind him and said 'Like this?'.
It closes on a bolt similar to a stilson wrench, and applies torque to the bolt as you turn. It took two bolts out instantly. This awesome thing saved me hours of trouble.
Bolt Extractor by Jibijib, on Flickr
One bolt was inaccessible so I just drilled it out. The whole bolt was drilled out and another can go in no problem.
C14SE Water Pump Bolt by Jibijib, on Flickr
The pump was encased in the building up that is throughout the coolant system in the car, and I thought it would be trouble, but a tap with a hammer and it fell out:
C14SE Water Pump Removed by Jibijib, on Flickr
It's intact, head gasket was replaced in 2002, so not sure if everything else was done at the time.
C14SE Water Pump Intact by Jibijib, on Flickr
Not sure what those tools are called, but I highly recommend them, they are completely awesome.
... and I flushed the whole coolant through and we had a LOT of ****e come out! The driveway was covered in a sea of white crud. It's always had anti-freeze/coolant in, which probably saved it, but it was way past it's sell by date by now.
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- Chesterfield, Derbyshire
Good to see its off 
Things like this can make a simple job near impossible without a good selection of tools
Things like this can make a simple job near impossible without a good selection of tools
Great pictures, great update. That looks like a great tool for the job. I can't figure out how you had access to drill out the remaining bolt, or how you managed to do that without damaging the threads, but doesn't matter, you've made massive progress - and aren't you glad you removed that seriously ugly old water pump? Can't imagine having left that piece of junk in there.
Well done on getting the pump off. Not the best place to work in with such rusty bolts.
Thanks all! The last bolt was just drilled through with a smaller drill bit than the thread, I just missed the thread and it came out with an easi-out. The vibration from the drilling always seems to shift the small bolts. The bottom one is just under the inner wing and can be got at fine with a drill.
The bottom one is just under the inner wing and can be got at fine with a drill.
Thanks all! The last bolt was just drilled through with a smaller drill bit than the thread, I just missed the thread and it came out with an easi-out. The vibration from the drilling always seems to shift the small bolts.
Excellent - ah yes, I wondered if it went just like that for you, lucky fella.
I reckon once its all back together it deserves a jolly good cooling system flush with one of those alkaline chemical products before finaly treating it to nice new coolant mix - and fingers crossed it isn't too badly corroded all around the head gasket.
Keep us posted I've been showing people the images...
Fantastic mate glad you got that out and now be able to sort it all out easy enough now fella well done.
+ 1 to that has it got a part number by anychance it would make it easyer to find mate.
It's just called a bolt extractor I think?
New tensioner arrived today (only took 8 days ffs):
C14SE Tensioner by Jibijib, on Flickr
The tensioner is sprung - the old one's spring was totally seized!
C14SE Tensioners by Jibijib, on Flickr
Removed all that rust:
C14SE Cambelt Change by Jibijib, on Flickr
Here's tensioner in place - you'll need to remove the cam pulley before hand, but everything else can be put on before you put the rear cover on.
C14SE Cambelt Change by Jibijib, on Flickr
There's a lug hole on the block just to the bottom left of the bolt hole - the metal hook/lug on the tensioner sits in here to keep it still:
C14SE Cambelt Change by Jibijib, on Flickr
You need to 'lock' the tensioner before you put the belt by putting a rod through the two holes in the sprung mechanism (otherwise there's no slack to get the belt over).
C14SE Cambelt Change by Jibijib, on Flickr
Once the belt is on, tighten the water pump bolts up to ensure it doesn't move, make sure the two timing notches are lined up (top of cam and bottom of crank), and turn the crank bolt twice to rotate the engine 720 degrees. The notches will be lined up unless you've done something wrong. If it jumps a bit, you won't damage the engine.
Loosen the water pump bolts, and I'd really advise using that Sykes-Pikavent tool to rotate the water pump to set the tensioner. The pulley on the water pump is eccentric, when you rotate it with a suitable wrench it tightens or slackens.
C14SE Cambelt Change by Jibijib, on Flickr
The purpose of adjusting the pump is to set this up - the little markers on the tensioner. Turn it clockwise and the belt applies pressure to the sprung mechanism, and when they are lined up like this:
C14SE Cambelt Change by Jibijib, on Flickr
The tensioner is set, and you need to tighten the water pump up to it's proper torque rating. This is tricky without applying pressure to the belt (which knocks the tensioner out), and not sure if that tool will help. Found it very difficult using a wrench.
This only took 10 minutes and the car was running again. I have to take the lot off again to put new covers on, as the bolts were seized so I broke them off.
New tensioner arrived today (only took 8 days ffs):
C14SE Tensioner by Jibijib, on Flickr
The tensioner is sprung - the old one's spring was totally seized!
C14SE Tensioners by Jibijib, on Flickr
Removed all that rust:
C14SE Cambelt Change by Jibijib, on Flickr
Here's tensioner in place - you'll need to remove the cam pulley before hand, but everything else can be put on before you put the rear cover on.
C14SE Cambelt Change by Jibijib, on Flickr
There's a lug hole on the block just to the bottom left of the bolt hole - the metal hook/lug on the tensioner sits in here to keep it still:
C14SE Cambelt Change by Jibijib, on Flickr
You need to 'lock' the tensioner before you put the belt by putting a rod through the two holes in the sprung mechanism (otherwise there's no slack to get the belt over).
C14SE Cambelt Change by Jibijib, on Flickr
Once the belt is on, tighten the water pump bolts up to ensure it doesn't move, make sure the two timing notches are lined up (top of cam and bottom of crank), and turn the crank bolt twice to rotate the engine 720 degrees. The notches will be lined up unless you've done something wrong. If it jumps a bit, you won't damage the engine.
Loosen the water pump bolts, and I'd really advise using that Sykes-Pikavent tool to rotate the water pump to set the tensioner. The pulley on the water pump is eccentric, when you rotate it with a suitable wrench it tightens or slackens.
C14SE Cambelt Change by Jibijib, on Flickr
The purpose of adjusting the pump is to set this up - the little markers on the tensioner. Turn it clockwise and the belt applies pressure to the sprung mechanism, and when they are lined up like this:
C14SE Cambelt Change by Jibijib, on Flickr
The tensioner is set, and you need to tighten the water pump up to it's proper torque rating. This is tricky without applying pressure to the belt (which knocks the tensioner out), and not sure if that tool will help. Found it very difficult using a wrench.
This only took 10 minutes and the car was running again. I have to take the lot off again to put new covers on, as the bolts were seized so I broke them off.
You had quite a task with all that corrosion.
Looks like the oil pump housing has seen better days. 
Looks like the oil pump housing has seen better days.
Excellent pictorial. Big challenge - well done getting it going again. Man that looks so much better now, cleaned up, spray painted, new parts gone in. The oil pump looks to be well fused to the block, guess it isn't going anywhere ever again.
Yeah I was wondering about the cambelt cover, figured those bots were frozen. Mine was OK except where the mechanic way overtorqued things and busted out several the brass nuts inserts for some cover bolts. Managed to reset them in place with some epoxy stuff.
So I guess that tensioner had to be sent from Canada? Come to think of it I seem to recall that my tensioner was stamped "Made in Canada"
Cheers, Paul
p.s. watched both RWC matches yesterday - Ireland vs Wales here in Wellington, England vs France in Auckland. Hours more today...
Yeah I was wondering about the cambelt cover, figured those bots were frozen. Mine was OK except where the mechanic way overtorqued things and busted out several the brass nuts inserts for some cover bolts. Managed to reset them in place with some epoxy stuff.
So I guess that tensioner had to be sent from Canada? Come to think of it I seem to recall that my tensioner was stamped "Made in Canada"
Cheers, Paul
p.s. watched both RWC matches yesterday - Ireland vs Wales here in Wellington, England vs France in Auckland. Hours more today...
Looking good man. Nicely done. That tool is cool.
Well done fella fantastic work you done there mate