correct bleeding of cooling system

[allanm114]

jus done engine change and my heaters arent as warm as befor. all setting on switch work. also temp gauge wont rise out of blu area whilst driving but wen stationary it will rise no bother. have i got air in system??? if so how do i bleed it correctly

 

[djyo]

im quite sure the thermo stat wasent working, i might just be thinking of my redtop tho as it needs one too, try your old one just to be sure

 

[allanm114]

i was beginning to think that. i'll jus buy 1 for it as they aint that dear. means i gotta take all new timing belt off lol. did you get a rad sorted m8. i've still your old 1.4 1 here. dint think it'll do much good wi the redetop tho

 

[djyo]

are you sure the belt needs taking off? It sits at the front of the engine on the redtop. Aye ive got another rad on the way. The 1.4 is half the size lol

 

[allanm114]

def sure m8. it round buck behind cambelt. thats the reason i never changed my thermostat on old engine. apparently a ball ache to do, will look thru haynes tomoz

 

[vaux_halls]

Mines like that i think previous owner took it out and i just cant be bothered putting on back in. Heaters dont warm up and my misses will be going mad soon when the cold sets in. Id rather a cool engine so stuff her. Just dont tell her i said that.

 

[allanm114]

yeah a cool engine is good but i like my comfort and warmth... remember i live in scotland and we dont get much decent weather here lol. i'm gonna have to do it tomoz but wat an arse of o thing to do

 

[djwilde69]

what engine have you changed it to?? as all cars no matter what the rad size is should stay at 90 on the dash so i would say the thermo is gone

 

[allanm114]

its jus another 1.4. i always assumed that was case too. its a rite ball ache. if i only thought to do this before putting other engine in

 

[djwilde69]

well if your thermo in in the blue on the dash iirc you will use more fule so best bet is to change it and then when you fill the system back up with antifrese/water leave the cap off for a min and make sure all the bubble's come out

 

[Andy]

When I change the coolant, I normally undo the CTS (coolent tempreture sensor) and top up the water till it pours out the hole then tighen it up again to bleed it.

It's a little Blue plug with two wires going to it, should be a 19 socket.

If you have the single-point engine, you'll find it at the rear of the engine on the inlet manifold. If it's the multi-point engine, it'll be under the dizzy.

 

[paul.spencer]

When I change the coolant, I normally undo the CTS (coolent tempreture sensor) and top up the water till it pours out the hole then tighen it up again to bleed it.

It's a little Blue plug with two wires going to it, should be a 19 socket.

If you have the single-point engine, you'll find it at the rear of the engine on the inlet manifold. If it's the multi-point engine, it'll be under the dizzy.

Yes TIS 2000 says that's the recommended way to bleed the system, but when I have suggested it before I kind of got slammed for saying so. Maybe people were concerned about the CTS breaking or not sealing afterwards or something. Whatever - if I had a 1.4L I would definitely try bleeding from the CTS...

 

[Andy]

Yeah I read it in the Haynes manual.

I've used this method a few times now and it reseals fine, just need to remember not to over tighten it.

 

[Andy_Mk3]

As above, bleed it through the CTS. Then just run it up with the heater on hot and keep topping up the water as needed. I find squeezing the top hose helps. Then hold it at 2-3k rpm till the cooling fan cuts in and the heaters are hot and it's taking no more water.

 

[allanm114]

wat happens if i've ova tightened the cts

 

[Andy_Mk3]

wat happens if i've ova tightened the cts

It will either snap or rip out the threads