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Jimmk3's C20let Gsi

Yeah its not great. Soo annoying really wanted it back on the road too. Going back to uni in a few weeks so wont be doing much on it till next year unfortunately! I will then decide weather its worth getting the welding done and to sort out all the other bits of rust at one time or maybe source another shell
 
Am now back from uni for christmas. Went to have a look at the astra and thanks to a damp garage there is a lot of mould! Here is how the astra looks at the moment.









So as it stands, the inlet manifold is off due to a coolant leak which was down to a leaky manifold gasket and one of the hoses that leads into the 3 way connector at the bottom of the manifold had a rip in it (which i didnt realise, think i tightened up the jubilee to tight). I may try to put the engine back together so at least i can start it now and again to stop it from getting mouldy.

Still in two minds weather to get it welded up or to source a new clean 3 door shell. What are your guys opinions? Would you bother getting it welded or would you invest in a new shell? The whole sill needs replacing and there is a large hole in the rear arch. These are the two main things needed for mot. There is also some surface rust round the filler cap and the rear quarters. Probably other rust around.vAnother option im thinking about is to maybe put it in a nova or something else. Just for a change really as have had the astra for a few years now.

Such a hard decision!
 
Well I know from experience when you start chasing rust you need to be prepared to do it 100% or it will just be back in the short term future, also be prepared to spend money! To replace the inner arches and rear quarters then paint and welding etc isn't cheap even if you do it yourself!

Then the other point is your going to spend a while to find a good clean shell these days as they are getting hard to find.

Damp is a killer to a car, I would remove the steering wheel next time and leave it in the house, could been through a cheap second hand eBay wheel on if it needs moving often.

Choice is your tbh shame to see the Gsi's get broken etc as they still look great on the road, but the economics of the whole thing has to be thought about realistically!
 
Update: Not much progress as have been at university but have now graduated (woop!) which means i can spend more of my time focusing on getting it back on the road! At the beginning of the year, my plans were to take the engine out and put it into a calibra v6 (which i am currently driving as a daily). Since returning home, i have changed my mind and really want to see the astra back on the road. At which point, the calibra v6 will come up for sale!

The inlet manifold is now back on and coolant lose which attaches onto the 3-way connector at the back has been sorted and is ready to start. Although as the car has been sitting i am a little apprehensive to start as i want to make sure there is oil at the turbo. So i disconnected the fuel pump relay and coil and cranked the starter hoping to see oil come out of the turbo return but no oil? Is cranking the starter motor enough to build up the oil pressure? The oil light on the dash is on when cranking. The oil level is at max on the dipstick. Any suggestions to get the oil around the system?
 
Its just a case of keep cranking, my let took ages to get the oil to the turbo when i refitted it and the oil light never went off fully, just flickered. You could try taking the big nut out the back of the oil filter housing and see if oil comes out, if not fill it with oil refit the plug and crank it over again..
 
big e said:
Its just a case of keep cranking, my let took ages to get the oil to the turbo when i refitted it and the oil light never went off fully, just flickered. You could try taking the big nut out the back of the oil filter housing and see if oil comes out, if not fill it with oil refit the plug and crank it over again..
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Right okay, obviously im just being a little impatient. Although before i removed the starter to gain access to the inlet manifold, you could keep cranking the starter motor but for some reason since refitting it, you can only crank for about 3 seconds before it stops and you have to re-turn the key to crank again?
 
hmmm maybe, will have to get under the car for another look
 
Had another look at the starter motor connections again today and there are no obvious signs of a loose/dodgy connection...any other ideas?
 
jimmk3 said:
Had another look at the starter motor connections again today and there are no obvious signs of a loose/dodgy connection...any other ideas?
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I had something similiar happen to my old Gsi and it turned out to be a dodgy ignition barrell.
 
Right, finally managed to get oil pressure. In the end i primed the oil pump manually by undoing the nut at the back of the pump and pouring oil through a hose directly into the pump. Cranked the starter over a few more times and the oil light went out and had oil out the turbo return! With some fresh fuel she started but is running very rough with eml on. Flashed out the codes and have got code 15 which is coolant temp sensor high voltage. Are the c20xe and c20let coolant temp sensors the same as i can try and switch them over in the morning to see if that solved the issue. Had a look at the wiring and it looks okay. Any other ideas as to what could be bringing up this fault? This fault wasnt present before i removed the inlet manifold to sort the coolant leak. Could it have something to do with the earths that connect to the fuel rail?
 
Glad you got it running, oil pressure is always good too lol.

Not sure if the temp sensors are the same, I think if they're the same colour you should be good though. But it does sound like it might be something that's been disturbed possibly.
 
Andy you were right about something being disturbed...had another look today and turns out i forgot to bolt down one of the earths that go to the fuel rail! :doh: Is running better now although there are still a few issues that need sorting. When i first started the engine last year, there was smoke coming from the turbo area. At the time i assumed it was just oil/dirt etc being burnt off but since getting it running again it is still doing it. Its not a massive amount of smoke but am starting to think its more than just oil being burnt off. Have had a quick read up and people are saying it could be blocked breather to the rocker cover? or seals? anything else to check? Also, i am getting a hissing sound when i press/depress the clutch or if i put it in gear and try and pull away. I cant work out weather its the clutch making the hissing noise or if its maybe a boost leak when under load? (which might also explain the high idle?) If it is the clutch, could it just be the noise of it wearing in? Its a brand new luk clutch if thats any help
 
bump! can anyone help me out on these few issues?
 
Is ur downpipe leaking where it meets the turbo? Could explain the smoke? The hissing is prolly gonna be a vac leak, you'll have to find it mate, cant help much from the other side of the internet. Spraying brake cleaner mite tell u where the leak is but only mayb
 
not much has been happening on this recently although is now in a garage to be welded! just want it back on the road now
 
love these in white I have a spectral blue one that's fairly tidy, quick question mate? do you have them wheels that were on it when you got it? if so are they for sale
 
cookie1984 said:
love these in white I have a spectral blue one that's fairly tidy, quick question mate? do you have them wheels that were on it when you got it? if so are they for sale
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Sorry mate, sold them quite a while back now
 
no worries but thanks for the reply, I realy cant find any decent looking wheels that suit the mk3,
 
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