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Thermal printed receipts last feck all time anyway

Most impressed with this... snapped my 24" breaker bar yesterday, took it back to Halfords without any proof of purchase and they swapped it on the spot without quibbling. It was nigh on ten years old! Original: Replacement: As you can see they've improved the design somewhat, the new one...

As per title. Is in Portsmouth, come get it.

Why? It was a right state.

After four years... sold it for a small profit :laugh:

Stick a capacitor in series with the airbag light, it will behave as expect then even without the bag.

That video missed a step, after you've rotated the engine twice and checked the timing marks, you have to check the belt tension is still correct. If it isn't; adjust and spin it over twice again, check and repeat 'til it stays right.

A) Yes B) Depends C) See B)

The crank pulley doesn't need to come off to change the timing belt, just the outer aux belt driving pulley (which does often get rusted on, but a puller will pop it off with ease). Cam belts on an XEV are a piece of ****.

My Sport runs cack on cold start, it's because it's missing an exhaust manifold stud (snapped) and it blows a fair bit until it's warmed up and the expansion of the metals seals the leak. I guess the leak plays havoc with the lambda for a bit.

Edit: Not relevant as I miss that it was a wing mounted one

They are on the same circuit.

Easiest way for the ball joint is to unwind the nut so it's slightly proud of the thread (to protect it from the forthcoming abuse), then slip a cold chisel between the nut and the CV joint. A few decent whacks on the chisel with a lump hammer will split it no trouble.

The griffon badge.

Fork type never fails :D

In the cylinders. HTH.

Very very easy.

Meh to longer bolts, convert to (longer) studs instead.

So I can't help but notice you're trying to sell it without mentioning the low compression, despite mentioning it's been compression tested. How shady is that!

A whirring? Like a belt and pulleys spinning round? lol